Restaurant-Worthy Vietnamese Food

I am going berserk over the recipes in my new Vietnamese cookbook, Vietnamese Home Cooking  by Charles Phan. The dishes I have prepared thus far have been familiar but with a hint of that exotic flavor usually found only in restaurant dishes. The food is fresh, complex and full of that perfect balance of salty–sweet–sour–heat. We do not have a restaurant that produces Vietnamese food like this in Baltimore. No we sure don’t. But, I am delighted that I now have a go-to guide so I can create restaurant-worthy Vietnamese dishes in my own kitchen. I cannot wait to hit Mr. Phan’s Vietnamese restaurant in San Francisco the next time I head to California to visit family.

Crispy Fried Shallots. Actually, these are double-fried, which renders them delightfully crispy crunchy.

Crispy Fried Shallots. Actually, these are double-fried, which renders them delightfully crispy crunchy.

You can even snack on these shallots as if they are potato chips. They were so easy to make and at the same time you wind up with a jar of shallot oil — two for one! I made extra to sprinkle over other Asian dishes I’ll be making this week.

Lemongrass Pork & Green Papaya Salad

Lemongrass Pork & Green Papaya Salad

Green papaya can be difficult to find and expensive to order online. So instead, I made this dish with finely shredded zucchini and it turned out beautifully. Just be sure to salt the zukes and squeeze out as much water as you can so the salad doesn’t become soggy. The mix of spearmint and cilantro in the dish provides a wonderfully fresh flavor.

Sour Cherry Season

When I first discovered sour cherries a few years ago at the Farmer’s Market, I was blown away by how delicious they were. I was also unbelievably disturbed that I had managed to live and eat in the world for over 30 years having never had the pleasure of enjoying a sour cherry. Gorgeous, aren’t they?

Gorgeous, aren't they?

Sour Cherries

I ADORE sour cherries. I was so enthusiastic that first season that I recall practically chasing down my neighbor at the market and gleefully giving her a handful from my basket to try. Right then. I wanted to share my gastronomic delight. Well, she hesitated, popped one in her mouth and then — oh my — she SPIT. IT. OUT. What? What? What? Her mouth puckered and contorted and she gasped and spit out my beautiful, precious sour cherry. To this day, after watching her face sour, my husband still refuses to try one. Sheesh.

Apparently, sour cherries are for pies as their sour pucker needs to be heavily doused with sugar. Clearly, my taste-buds are wacky. Yes, I have since made a pie out of sour cherries, but I honestly prefer them as is and will continue to enjoy them solo during their fleeting season.

For those who prefer a sweeter fruit, the blackberries are in full swing at the Farmer’s Market as well. Unfortunately, my husband does enjoy these which means I have to share.

DDblackberries

Vietnamese Food Heaven

We could not put our chopsticks down last night.

We didn’t even want to eat rice with this luscious, saucy shrimp (which is unheard of in my household given my husband is a rice freak) as we didn’t want anything to compete the phenomenal flavors.

This was certainly the most outstanding Vietnamese dish I have ever created in my own kitchen. It even rivaled some of the better menu items I have enjoyed at restaurants. This is the kind of meal that would make me return to a restaurant week after week because there is no denying the craving for this dish once you have had the pleasure of devouring it.

Ingredients

Ingredients

Vietnamese Caramelized Lemongrass Shrimp

Vietnamese Caramelized Lemongrass Shrimp

 

Caramelized Lemongrass Shrimp

Adapted from “Vietnamese Home Cooking,” by Charles Phan. This recipe will work without shrimp heads, but Phan says the heads add richness to the sauce. The recipe also calls for homemade roasted chile paste (there is a recipe in the book), but you can also purchase jarred roasted chile paste.

  • 2 pounds medium head-on shrimp in their shells, or purchase peeled and deveined shrimp if you wish
  • 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 tablespoons canola or vegetable oil
  • 2 shallots, thinly sliced into rings
  • 2 Thai chiles, stemmed and halved on the diagonal
  • 1/4 cup finely minced lemongrass
  • 1 teaspoon minced garlic
  • 1 2- by 1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely julienned
  • 1 tablespoon + 2 teaspoons roasted chile paste
  • 1/2 cup caramel sauce 
  • 1/4 cup low-sodium chicken broth or water
  • — Steamed white or brown rice

Instructions: Use scissors to remove the sharp spike at the tail of each shrimp and the spike in the center of the head. Cut off the eyes and discard, then separate the head from the body. Set the heads aside. Peel each shrimp body, removing the tail segments, then devein. Sprinkle bodies with the pepper; set aside.

Pour the oil into a 2-quart clay pot or high-sided skillet, and heat over medium heat. Add the shallots, chiles and reserved shrimp heads and cook, stirring, about 30 seconds, until fragrant. Add the lemongrass, garlic, ginger, and chile paste; cook, stirring, about 1 minute more. Add the caramel sauce and stock; stir to combine.

Add the shrimp bodies, and toss to coat with the aromatic ingredients. Increase the heat to medium-high and cook, stirring occasionally, about 6 minutes, until the shrimp are bright pink.

Serve directly from the clay pot, accompanied by steamed rice.

Lesson Learned

Sunday was muggy, sticky and sweltering — the perfect afternoon to stay inside and play in my kitchen. I decided to make  a full batch of Vietnamese Caramel Sauce (this is for savory dishes like caramel shrimp, not for dessert) to prep for Monday night’s dinner and store some in the pantry for quick Vietnamese dishes all summer long.

A wise woman would have followed the directions, particularly since this un-wise woman had never made the sauce before.

A wise woman would NOT have tried to save calories by substituting some of the sugar with Splenda. Apparently, Splenda does not melt.  This is a handy little fact to know if you are stirring nearly 2 pounds of it over a hot stove waiting for it to liquefy. Basically, I had been stirring what amounted to a pot of sand for over 45 minutes before googling, “does Splenda melt?” That’s a big fat no.

So, out goes the whole mess and in goes the real deal. I now have two gorgeous jars of beautiful Vietnamese caramel sauce, which I look forward to testing out tonight in my Vietnamese caramelized shrimp dish.

Stirring the caramel sauce

Stirring the caramel sauce

Finished Product

Finished Product

 

RECIPE:

Vietnamese Caramel Sauce

Makes about 4 cups

Adapted from “Vietnamese Home Cooking,” by Charles Phan.

  • 2 pounds light brown palm sugar, chopped into pieces
  • 2 1/2 cups fish sauce

Instructions: In a heavy-bottom 4-quart pot, gently melt the sugar over medium-low heat, stirring frequently. This will take 10 to 12 minutes. Do not be tempted to rush the process or you may scorch the sugar.

When the sugar is lump free, completely melted and just beginning to boil, remove the pan from the heat and very slowly pour in the fish sauce while stirring constantly. Be careful, as it will bubble furiously.

Use the sauce right away or let cool completely, transfer to an airtight container, and store in a cool cupboard for up to 3 months.